Growing Pains

Often people will come to my chair with plans on growing out their hair.  I notice that a lot of times that is their only plan.  That is our job as professionals to help develop, plan and educate our guests on how best to achieve these long Victoria Secret type of locks.  I hope this will help not only fellow stylists but also guests.

First thing we have to do is determine what is and is not achievable.  You want to not only plan for this haircut but for the following haircuts that will lead up to the desired results.  It is like a Chess match.  We want to plan not just a single move but future ones as well.

We want to look at texture and density.  If we are working with fine sparse hair, it is unlikely that a picture of Kim Kardashian’s hair is an honest, likely result without extensions.  We need to look at more achievable pictures.  We also need to look at the condition of the hair and pick out the best haircut.  With fine hair we need to be very careful of over layering the hair.  Layering hair takes out weight in the interior of the shape.  It may reduce bulk and add “fullness” at the crown, but it also takes out valuable hair that will protect the strength of the perimeter of the hair.  This may be the single biggest mistake I see stylists make when cutting fine hair.  Long traditional classic type of layering may be the best option with finer hair, if layering is desired.  If the hair all ready has too much layering, we will want to grow those layers in.  Remember, it is not always what you cut, but what you don’t cut.  Cutting those layers may just require a light clean up through dry cutting and light texturizing.  

Someone with Denser, Thicker hair obviously will have different concerns than those with finer hair.  If there is great density, you would be able to be a little more aggressive with the layering, since there is more hair to support this type of cut.  However, we still want to see where we are going.  Map out our plan.  Plan your work, work your plan.  (I like to create “invisible” type of layers through free hand notching to reduce the bulk. )

Now, making our plan we must get on a routine.  Another big mistake I see being made is people waiting too long to get a haircut.  People often think “I want my hair to be long.  Wouldn’t cutting defeat the purpose?”  To the contrary.  Hair is like panty hose.  It splits and moves upwards.  Waiting too long will only make the ends split and become more stringy.  That will put you in a position of cutting more than wanted at the next haircut or sacrifice that healthy looking hair.  

The following is a plan I recommend to my guests:

1.  Pick out the best haircut for you and plan.
2. Get a clean cut every 4-6 weeks.
3. Use good products- A moisturizing shampoo and styling prep product that protects the hair from heat is a MUST!
4. Limit the amount of heat you use on your hair.  If heat is a must, try blow drying more and flat ironing less.
5. Limit the times you wash your hair.  Washing can be drying to the hair and some natural oil is good for you hair.
6. Get a good deep conditioning-like Aveda’s new Botanical Therapy- every 6 to 12 weeks.
7. Avoid over processing of your hair color.  This is key for anyone who wants to grow their hair.  Gentle hair color is preferred.  Take it easy on the bleach!

If you follow these few easy steps, you will be on your way to long beautiful hair in no time.