Aveda Rocker Haircut

Retro...the Next Hot Trend?

With the recent success of T.V.  shows such as Mad Men, Pan-Am, Boardwalk Empire and movies like J. Edgar, I’m noticing a momentum of retro,50s and 60’s types of looks, not only in fashion but in hair as well.  I even have a few male guests that I cut retro type looks from heavy side parted hair and have minimal texture on the top a smoother sleeker look with short sides with intentional weight left around the Parietal Ridge to a Buddy Holly style.  The band Weezer and certain Emo Pop/Punk kids started on this type of trend years ago, but with the recent success of these shows and movie, I see a more refined, cleaner versions of retro coming strongly in the main stream.

The past few years texture has been king.  I see this slowly moving towards smoother, throw back styles.  And whats not to love about this!  These retro looks provide a sexiness that is more about classy conservative looks and less about sultriness.  

If these are looks you like, I suggest being on the forefront of this trend.  Look for pictures and styles you like.  After all, you are only fashionable and chic and if you are at the front of the trend.  Let your fashion be retro, not your taste.  

Growing Pains

Often people will come to my chair with plans on growing out their hair.  I notice that a lot of times that is their only plan.  That is our job as professionals to help develop, plan and educate our guests on how best to achieve these long Victoria Secret type of locks.  I hope this will help not only fellow stylists but also guests.

First thing we have to do is determine what is and is not achievable.  You want to not only plan for this haircut but for the following haircuts that will lead up to the desired results.  It is like a Chess match.  We want to plan not just a single move but future ones as well.

We want to look at texture and density.  If we are working with fine sparse hair, it is unlikely that a picture of Kim Kardashian’s hair is an honest, likely result without extensions.  We need to look at more achievable pictures.  We also need to look at the condition of the hair and pick out the best haircut.  With fine hair we need to be very careful of over layering the hair.  Layering hair takes out weight in the interior of the shape.  It may reduce bulk and add “fullness” at the crown, but it also takes out valuable hair that will protect the strength of the perimeter of the hair.  This may be the single biggest mistake I see stylists make when cutting fine hair.  Long traditional classic type of layering may be the best option with finer hair, if layering is desired.  If the hair all ready has too much layering, we will want to grow those layers in.  Remember, it is not always what you cut, but what you don’t cut.  Cutting those layers may just require a light clean up through dry cutting and light texturizing.  

Someone with Denser, Thicker hair obviously will have different concerns than those with finer hair.  If there is great density, you would be able to be a little more aggressive with the layering, since there is more hair to support this type of cut.  However, we still want to see where we are going.  Map out our plan.  Plan your work, work your plan.  (I like to create “invisible” type of layers through free hand notching to reduce the bulk. )

Now, making our plan we must get on a routine.  Another big mistake I see being made is people waiting too long to get a haircut.  People often think “I want my hair to be long.  Wouldn’t cutting defeat the purpose?”  To the contrary.  Hair is like panty hose.  It splits and moves upwards.  Waiting too long will only make the ends split and become more stringy.  That will put you in a position of cutting more than wanted at the next haircut or sacrifice that healthy looking hair.  

The following is a plan I recommend to my guests:

1.  Pick out the best haircut for you and plan.
2. Get a clean cut every 4-6 weeks.
3. Use good products- A moisturizing shampoo and styling prep product that protects the hair from heat is a MUST!
4. Limit the amount of heat you use on your hair.  If heat is a must, try blow drying more and flat ironing less.
5. Limit the times you wash your hair.  Washing can be drying to the hair and some natural oil is good for you hair.
6. Get a good deep conditioning-like Aveda’s new Botanical Therapy- every 6 to 12 weeks.
7. Avoid over processing of your hair color.  This is key for anyone who wants to grow their hair.  Gentle hair color is preferred.  Take it easy on the bleach!

If you follow these few easy steps, you will be on your way to long beautiful hair in no time.

Dream Big

"If you can dream it, you can do it."  ~ Walt Disney

A reminder of how our dreams can change the world around us.

Chic, New Look

Becca wanted a chic, sexy new look. She desired a stylish look, but was concerned that a shorter cut would make her appear too young.  She didn't want the shape being too blunt either.

We looked through pictures and agreed she liked a rounder shape.  It was a good choice be cause of her high chiseled bone structure and thin features.  With the amount of hair she has, I knew texture would be key.  Softness could accentuate her features and give more of a sexy, sophisticated look.

I began by cutting the frame of the shape wet, using horizontal graduation with slight elevation at the nape, working my up to the occipital bone.  I brought everything back square from the occipital until I reached the crown.  This gave me the foundation for the haircut.

I over directed everything in front of her ears back using the back previously cut hair as my guide.  I wanted to maintain the length and angle the hair towards her front.  I then moved through both sides, again using horizontal graduation and cross checking vertically.  This time, being mindful of the angle moving towards her face.  I worked in this angle cross checking with over directed vertical graduation until I reached the parietal ridge.

On top, I used round layering in the front of a horse shoe parting, but leaving the fringe out.  Moving towards the back crown.  I also used round layering working into and through my previously cut square back.

Using Aveda Confixor, I roughed dried and then using a round brush curled the shape under.

After dry, I used various texturizing techniques to make the cut pop and customize it.  This cut became special with all of the dry cutting.  From Deep Point Cutting to Chipping; from Slide Cutting to Slithering; from free hand matching to twisting and cutting. For more texture, I back combed and cut .

In a few areas I used texturizing shears, but mostly my dry cutting was with straight shears.  The free handing really made the cut.

Although the shape was created with certain layering techniques, it had connected and disconnected layering.

I left the fringe longer which gave intrigue and sexiness.  The finished look was created with a comination of Aveda Men's Grooming Clay, Shaping Wax and Air Control.  Result: Beautiful, sexy chic hair cut that turned heads and made Becca feel beautiful.  This cut was satisfying and fun!

Real Men, Real Advice

Last week, I had the pleasure of teaching a Men's Haircutting Class at Felix Andrew Salons.  The class was designed to assist FA Stylist on improving various techniques.  One of FA's managers taped part of the class, which can be seen below. 

June 2011 Mens Haircutting Class

Aveda Felix Andrew Salons

The stylists were asking me for summer advice to give to their male guests.  One suggestion I give my male guests is to use a good shampoo.  I recommend a good exfoliating shampoo during the summer season to prevent clogging pores and follicles.  Clogged pores and follicles can lead to hair loss or blemishes

The shampoo I recommend is the Aveda Men’s Pure-Formance Exfoliating Shampoo, which can be found in any Aveda salon.  The shampoo thoroughly cleanses the scalp and hair removing excessive oil, product build-up and dull, dead skin cells.  Men’s Health recently awarded this product a Grooming Award.

For more details on the Men’s Haircutting Class, click on FB Videos  or visit my new YouTube Channel I just launched @ WadeTheHairGuyYouTube to view more footage. 

Transform. Re-Create. Defy Convention.

Recently, Holly and I taught the certification class for the Aveda SI Retexturizing System to the Felix Andrew Salons' team.   We certified around 25 stylist on this permanent treatment that is designed to reform or smooth out curl to a manageable curl,wave or straight texture.  

This system is not a Keratin Treatment, with the proper maintenance the guest can maintain any desired volume.  Aveda’s new Retexturizing System is 74% naturally derived.  We liked that you can perform this service on chemically treated hair and no chemical stench will escape from your hair every time your hair gets wet or your hair heats up.  Innovative and still good for the environment, the guest and the stylist ... who’s suprised it is manufactured by Aveda? 

Before AVEDA SI Retexturizing Treatment

After AVEDA SI Retexturizing Treatment

Check out my latest Facebook album Aveda SI Retexturizing  Systems to see all the models’ Before and After pictures.  

Summer Tips

During the summer, I get a lot of the same questions every year.  I composed a bit of advice that I give guest in my chair to beat common summer problems.

-I suggest moving away from full or side swept fringe.  Think longer face framing shapes.  Why?  Humidity is not hair's best friend.  During the summer, fringe that lays on the forehead can cause perspiration which can clog pores.  No one wants bumps on their freshly tan skin!  Longer fringe is more versatile-pin them up (pompadour style) or back.

-For you water lovers: Invest in a good detox shampoo.  Unwanted minerals, pollution, salt, and chlorine water are just a few elements that are not so kind to the hair.  A detox shampoo will remove those elements that cause unwanted build up.  (I suggest the Aveda Sun Care Hair and Body Cleanser)

-Protect your skin and hair from harmful UV rays.  Most people remember to use SPF for their skin.  But why spend a pretty penny at the salon to get that perfect color for summer, just to have it altered by the sun's rays?  (I suggest Aveda's Protective Hair Veil)  Even better, protect your hair by wearing a hat or scarf.

Hopefully, these tips help you beat any problems the summer elements bring to you.

About Me

I am an Artist who loves to be a Day Maker.  I have a unique perspective on beauty and how hair can transcend that beauty on ones everyday life.  I strive to be a Day Maker and love the feeling that my work can give happiness to others.  My Artistry is in my craft and I look at each individual guests' hair as my canvas.

I have a passion for education.  Hair is an ever evolving craft and I take every class I am able to in order to keep me on the cutting edge.  I also love teaching and passing on my knowledge to those I mentor.  That is the best gift I could ever give.

I love Aveda; from the products, to the education, to the mission statement, to the environmental and socially conscious way of living.  Aveda has set my standards to be the best.